Debra Frampton | World Communities Instructor | 13 August 2007
DAVETALEVU, Fiji — In the heart of the Davetalevu Village, 90 minutes northeast of Suva, you'll find the Latter-day Saint Korovou Branch [a small congregation]; and in the heart of the Korovou Branch, you'll find the Gospel.
On Wednesday, August 8, a small group of Fijian members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints including Manasa Cava — First Counselor of the Nausori Stake [church district], accompanied the BYU-Hawaii faculty and librarians group traveling through Fiji and New Zealand to the Korovou meetinghouse. Little did any of them know, as they weaved their way along a winding dirt road through the oversized mango trees, palms and bamboos draped in heavy foliage, they were about to be dazzled by the spirit of a small branch with a big soul.
Young men in warrior attire greeted the group with the traditional Ai Vaka Sobu, or welcome, before leading them to a shed built just for the occasion out of bamboo, thatched with coconut leaves, tied together with vines and adorned with multiple mats.
When Nausori Stake President Tagi Duku learned that a group of teachers from BYU-Hawaii were coming to learn about Fijian culture, he asked the Korovou Branch if they would prepare a full protocol ceremony normally used to greet high chiefs. "They accepted willingly and immediately began preparations," said Duku.
"I had no idea what to expect, but I could tell right away that the people were extremely serious about what they were doing and more importantly, extremely sincere," remarked professor of music Darren Duerden. "Even though I couldn't understand anything being said, the spirit was pervasive. The young men were well prepared and well rehearsed and they carried out their duties with such strength and dignity. It was very poignant seeing them in their natural state."
During the ceremony, the Korovou Branch president became emotional as he spoke of the weeks of practice and preparations made by the members, particularly those who had stayed up the entire night before preparing the feast and making leis. When asked if the Relief Society had been the ones to pull the all-nighter, recently returned missionary, Asinate Vereubia from Fiji, who hopes to attend BYU-Hawaii in January, remarked, "Yes! And the Primary, and the High Priests, and the Young Women and Young Men, and the Elder's Quorum too. The whole branch stayed up all night."
As a Fijian sister in the branch presented leis to the visitors during the protocol, there was a palpable hush. These were not just any ole' leis. Some were made by chipping sterapea tree bark into dangling curls; others were made from an expensive water reed called kuta; and still others were made with hundreds of tiny xora flowers. It was a labor of love.
The protocol included a yaqona or kava ceremony. After, BYU-Hawaii head librarian Riley Moffat presented the Fijians with a tabua, or whale's tooth, which is a highly prized symbol of power in the Fijian culture.
The protocol was followed by a feast of kokoda (raw fish with tomatoes, marinated in lemon juice and coconut milk), pulusami (taro leaf soaked in coconut milk), octopus, freshwater prawns, roast pork and curry chicken. During the feast the young women performed the vakamolo, or sitting dance, and the young men played the lali drums and danced the meke wesi or spear dance. Afterwards, the BYU-Hawaii group passed out plenty of chocolate to the children as well as grateful hugs and handshakes to the adults. When they sang Aloha 'Oe on their way out the Fijian members joined in enthusiastically on the chorus.
Clearly moved, recently hired professor of Southeast Asian Studies Michael Murdock remarked, "I have learned to appreciate the students that I'll be teaching at BYU-Hawaii. When I go into the classroom, I'll have an understanding of the background and context that created these students — where they've come from. This will influence the way I teach."
The Korovou Branch is growing quickly, and it's no wonder. They've baptized 22 new members since the beginning of the year, and will become an official ward on Sunday, August 26. According to the missionaries, Elder Lewanavanua from Fiji and Elder Tira from New Zealand, the LDS Church is thriving in Fiji, boasting 300 new converts since January. "The people here in Fiji are so receptive to the Gospel," said Tira.
To borrow a phrase from Duerden, "There is mana [spiritual essence] galore in Fiji!"
— Photos by Debra Frampton: (Top left): President Duku explains the yaqona ceremony to Riley Moffat; (middle right) the young men prepare the yaqona or kava; (lower left): BYUH history professor James Tueller shares treats with the Korovou children
